Chinchilla Requirements
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Basic Requirements
*Temperature & Humidity: the sum of the current temperature + the current humidity must be equal to or less than 150.
For instance, 70 degrees + 85% humidity = 155. This is too much for a chinchilla to handle well. 70 degrees + 50% humidity = 120. This is safe for a chinchilla to be in.
*Air Conditioning and Back-up Air Conditioning: chinchillas must be in cooler temps. Air conditioning cools air and removes humidity (except in high-humidity states like Florida. In those states, a dehumidifier is recommended).
Central air is a wonderful thing to have, but what if something happens to it? You need to have a window unit, just in case. You don't want to be stuck with a broken a/c when it's 86 degrees out and all the stores are closed. Frozen chillers and frozen water bottles are ok for the short-term, but a permanent source of cool air is absolutely necessary.
*Entertainment: chinchillas must have a tv or radio on at all times. They are prey animals, and silence signifies a predator is near. In order to avoid this impression (and the resulting stress), there must be some kind of noise.
*Toys: this goes with entertainment, but it's also a necessity. Chinchillas need toys, especially of varying components. So hanging toys with wood, pumice, loofah, shredders, and throw toys with the same kinds of things.
*Hiding place: as prey animals, chinchillas need a safe, enclosed place to sleep and hide. We recommend having two hiding places, so your chin can have options available.
*Hay: chinchillas NEED hay to wear down their teeth and for nourishment. Their diets should consist of at least 90% hay.
*High-Quality pellets: such as Manna Pro, Manna Pro Sho or Oxbow Chinchilla Food. The pellets should not have corn in them. Corn grows a form of mold that is toxic to chinchillas. The two above-listed feeds do not have corn in them. You want a fiber content well over 20%, a phosphorus:calcium ratio of at least 1:2, and a protein content below 18%.
*Treats: treats are not a requirement, but I can't deny it is adorable watching chins enjoy one every now and then. For that reason, I'll list chinchilla-safe treats here. Treats MUST be washed and then dehydrated; treats should be organic whenever possible; treats MUST be approved as edible (DO NOT GIVE YOUR CHINS TREATS THAT ARE MEANT FOR, say, POT POURRIE.)
Safe treats to give your chinchilla include: rosehips, cut & sifted rosehips, rosebuds (from herb stores; the kind that are for consumption only), peppermint leaf, mint, basil, oregano, thyme, chamomile, red clover blossom (not safe for pregnant chins), carrot slices, kale, collard greens, acidophilus chewables. Safe treats can be found at grocery stores, Walmarts, health food stores, and online at chinchilla supply stores.
Unsafe treats include: goji berries (from the nightshade family and they do contain trace amounts of a toxic chemical), raisins (raisins are toxic to animals, and have been linked to kidney and liver damage), people food, nuts (contribute to fatty liver), seeds. The thing about the treats listed as unsafe, is that they used to be acceptable. Considering recent studies have uncovered the toxicity of raisins, we feel it is not worth the risk to give them to chinchillas. If you feel you MUST give raisins, do not give more than one a week. It is just as cute (and much, much better overall for your chinchilla) to give him/her a rosehip, or one of the safe treats listed above.
*15" Exercise Wheel: such as the Chin Spin. Chinchillas have a lot of energy, and they need to be able to burn it somehow. A good solution is an exercise wheel, but it must be large enough in diameter. A good rule of thumb is to use a diameter that is at least 2" bigger than the length (including tail) of your chinchilla.
Wheels can not have spokes. Spokes force the back to bend unnaturally and cause serious health problems.
Wheels must have solid running surfaces to prevent toes and tails from getting snagged.
Wheels can not have cross bars. Bars that cross the opening of wheels have been known to break legs, and, even worse, necks.
*Cage size considerations: the best cage size for your chinchilla depends on his/her personality. Some chins like cages that are 2'x3'x2', while others prefer cages that are twice as tall. Some prefer tall cages over wide, and vice versa. We've got a couple chins here that prefer cages that are 4'x4'x2'. They are not comfortable jumping from shelf to shelf.
When adopting a chinchilla, verify your chin's preferences with the rescue. They should be able to let you know what your chin prefers. If not, watch where your chin prefers to hang out the most. If it stays close to the floor, it's likely to prefer a wider cage. If it relishes climbing, it's likely to prefer a taller cage.
*Bar spacing: this, too, depends on the chinchilla. Generally, it's safest to get cages that have bars spaced no more than 1"x1". Some chinchillas like to run around the walls of the cage, while others are content to keep their feet on solid ground. For the wall surfers, 1/2"x1" is the biggest spacing you should go with. For the chins who do not run on the walls, the bar spacing of a Ferret Nation is fine.
To get cages with smaller bar spacing, shop for Quality Cages. When shopping for a cage, remember that adult chinchillas are usually 12" in length.
For Ferret Nations, ferret.com is a good source. They usually have $7 shipping, and they price-match other online prices. If you find a Ferret Nation listed somewhere else for a lower price, you can call ferret.com up to get the other store's price. Add $7 shipping to it, and you've saved yourself about $40.
*Playtimes: pet chinchillas need play time. They should spend 7 hours a week minimum outside their cage. Think about how you'd feel if you were shut in a small room 24/7. Not so great.
Playtimes should be in a chin-proofed room. All wires/cords should be protected or out-of-reach. Electrical sockets should have baby-proof plugs.
You also need to play with your chin during playtime. Not just to supervise, but also to promote bonding with your chins. One of the best way to build trust with your chinchilla(s) is to get on the floor with them during playtime. Let them run up your legs and balance on your arms and learn that the big grabby hands aren't there to hurt them, but for enjoyment. It's also necessary to supervise because chins tend to like painted wood.
*Do not EVER use an exercise ball. They make it hard for chinchillas to see; they heat up very quickly in there due to the lack of air flow, and there is nowhere for the chin to pee, meaning when they pee it gets all in their fur. Chinchillas have died after less than 10 minutes in exercise balls. Please, if you have one for your chinchilla, return it to the store for store credit, or throw it away.